Finalists Announced for International Stove Competition

Finalists Announced for International Competition to Build Cleaner Wood Stove

Pool of inventors, universities and manufacturers will compete in first-ever Wood Stove Design Challenge

Judges announced today the 14 finalists for the Wood Stove Design Challenge, the first international competition to build an affordable, cleaner-burning wood stove for residential heating. The finalists' stoves will be tested and judged on the National Mall in Washington, D.C., in November 2013. The winner will receive $25,000 cash.

The Wood Stove Design Challenge was launched by the Alliance for Green Heat, an independent non-profit, to bring more innovation to a popular, widely used renewable energy device. In selecting finalists, judges looked for designs that could produce ultra-low emissions, high efficiency, in addition to innovation, affordability, and marketability.

[quote from Nathan Russel]

Among the 14 designs are stoves controlled by microprocessors and connected to smartphones, as well as ultra-efficient stoves based on 17th century Scandinavian designs and several state-of-the-art hybrid stoves that are already on the market. Six are from Europe.

Judges examining testing equipment last week at Brookhaven National Lab

The nine judges

met last week at DOE's

Brookhaven National Laboratory and include leading experts fromPopular Mechanics, the New York State Energy and Research Development Authority (NYSERDA), the US Forest Service, Washington State Department of Ecology, DOE BrookhavenNational Laboratory, The Biomass Thermal Energy Council, the Osprey Foundation, the Masonry Heater Association and UC Berkeley.

The EPA requires most new wood stoves to be far cleaner than the unregulated stoves of the 1970s and 80s, which were notoriously polluting. Even so, the wood stove has not been embraced as a clean energy technology by most policy makers or the public, in part because low emissions are only achieved if consumers operate the stove correctly. Many don't.

"We need stoves that incorporate best practices in combustion engineering to maximize efficiency and drastically reduce particulates and carbon monoxide. Then, wood stoves will be able to meet even more of our residential heating needs," said Mark Knaebe, one of the judges and a Natural Resource Specialist at the USDA Forest Service.  

The 14 winning teams are: Dragon Heat, The Firemaster, Helbro Stoves, Hwam, Intercontinental, Kimberly, Ofenbau & Feuerstein, SmartStove, Travis Industries, Tulukivi, University of Maryland, Walker Stoves, Wittus and Woodstock Soapstone. 

"The competition brings together innovators - whether established manufacturers or backyard inventors  - to improve America's most widespread residential renewable energy device, the wood stove. We've seen how technologies like oxygen sensors and catalysts have made today's automobiles far less polluting. We're excited to help encourage a similar technological revolution in wood stoves," said Jim Meigs, judge and Editor-in-Chief ofPopular Mechanics.          

Most of the teams represent established wood stove companies, but five are independent inventors and engineering students who have never brought a stove to market. Some are looking to sell their inventions to manufacturers and others are looking for recognition so they can ramp up production.

The Grand Prize and second and third place winners will be selected during the Wood Stove Decathlon, held on the Washington National Mall and open to the public in November 2013.

For more information, visitwww.forgreenheat.org/stovedesign.html.

Austrian Kachelofen Stove Builders to Visit the U.S. in April

The Masonry Heater Association of North America is hosting a masonry heater and brick oven workshop April 15-21, 2013 with featured guest instructors from Austria. Participants will learn techniques and priciples of contemporary Grundofen/Kachelofen design and construction in this hands-on workshop held at Wildacres Retreat in the Blue Ridge Mountains north of Asheville, North Carolina.

Anyone who wishes to learn more about masonry heater and masonry bake oven technology and building techniques is encouraged to join the MHA and attend this workshop. Masonry heaters are site-built wood-burning appliances that radiantly heat a home with wood. They are very efficient and clean burning, and use relatively small amounts of wood to heat without the use of electricity, gas, fans, or ducts.

Austrian Master Stove Builders Paul Polatschek and Luis Wegscheider and stove designer/project consultant and coordinator Stefan Polatschek are presenting the Austrian stove program. Paul Polatschek and Luis Wegscheider, both 28, are Master Stove Fitters who apprenticed in Lower Austria and Tirol respectively.  Paul founded his company Die Hafnerei at Krems at the age of 21 and has a successful career with 6 employees assisting him in his current operations. Luis Wegscheider is the leader of a stove producer's technical development department, having created his own Austrian UZ37 combustion chamber used in his small Grundofen series. Stefan Polatschek, age 58, runs a consulting, planning and design office, doing work mostly for wood-fire related projects in cooperation with industry players. Stefan grew up in Tirol, where he got first-hand experience with ceramics in his younger days. This is a unique opportunity for builders to see the experts at work.

The annual meeting and workshop will include classroom and hands-on training in masonry heater basics, bricklaying, bake ovens and smokers, the Austrian heater, and other masonry heater designs.

The media is invited to attend and take photos of the event.

For more information or media scheduling contact Richard Smith, MHA Executive Director, at
520-883-0191 or e-mail execdir@mha-net.org or visit www.mha-net.org.

How Large An Area Will A Masonry Heater Heat?

By Doug Hargrave

At first glance this seems to be a simple question which should have an easy answer. In actuality the answer to this question is much more complicated. There are two factors that must be quantified in order to determine if a particular masonry heater design will heat a defined square foot area.  One factor, which is relatively easy to determine, is the maximum heat output of the masonry heater. The other factor, determining the heat load (loss) of a defined square foot area under the coldest conditions, is more difficult.

While it is difficult to make an accurate claim as to the amount of space a particular masonry heater design will heat, it is possible based on the amount of wood burned, to accurately predict its BTU output and to define its heat storage capacity.  On the other hand, determining the heat load of a home requires a heat loss calculation of the floors, walls and ceiling based on their insulation properties, a determination of the homes efficiency in terms of outside air infiltration and inside leaks, and finally the heat load must be adjusted to the heating degree days for the geographic location of the home.

The following question and responses recently appeared on the members chat forum for the Masonry Heater Association of North America.

Question:

What can you expect out of a masonry heater with (the home) insulation being average to slightly above average? It would be nice to know how many Btu’s or how many square feet a typical heater will take care of.

 

Respondent A

That is a loaded question, and you can get into a lot of trouble promising a customer to heat xx square feet. We have one heater heating a 2800 sq. ft. super-insulated house in a cold climate. An identical one was built in a milder climate, and is incapable of heating a 1000 sq. ft. "poorly insulated" house. "Insulated" is a misnomer, since leakiness is often a bigger factor than insulation. "Efficiency" would be a better term, or "low energy" or even better "low heating load". 
 
You are better off to quote the heat output of the heater, and leave it be the client's responsibility to determine how much of his heating load it will cover. You can also quote some magic voodoo stuff about radiant heat. While real, it is much harder to quantify.  The generally accepted maximum output of a large heater is 20,000 BTU/hr, or 6 kW. One of those cube shaped 220V shop heaters is about 5 kW, so imagine one of those blowing continuously.  To get 20,000 BTU/hr, you need to burn about 100 lbs of 20% moisture wood at 70% efficiency. Typically, that will be two 50 lb fires per day. If you try to build a heater larger than that, you really need to know what you are doing, or be guaranteed durability problems.  Some companies up the rating of their heaters by specifying 3 fires per day. So you'd get 20,000 BTU/hr with a 33 lb capacity firebox.

Respondent B

(Respondent A) is correct: The only thing you can safely guarantee is output. If the heater is planned as the major heat source, I ask people to provide heat loss statement to compare with heater's output. I also can give them rough assessment of heater's capabilities bases on the max output for a reasonably largest possible heater at 25000 Btu/hr, extreme cases, 30000btu hr, and on rule of thumb for heat loss per sq ft related to the estimated R-value of their outside walls. The numbers for this rule of thumb were given at least a couple of times in this forum in the past. Super insulated home (R30 walls +) will have heat loss of 10Btu per sq ft or less, while a century home without any insulation may be in 40-50 Btu per sq ft.

Respondent A (additional comments)

Super insulated home (R30 walls +) will have heat loss of 10Btu per sq ft or less, while a century home without any insulation may be in 40-50 Btu per sq ft.

Using this rule of thumb, for a 20,000 BTU/hr heater:  Super insulated house: 2,000 sq. ft.  Un-insulated century house: 400 sq. ft.  You also have to factor in location.  Ottawa Canada has 8,100 heating degree-days.  Vancouver has 4,700.  A house in Ottawa with 2,000 sq. ft. is equivalent to 3,500 sq. ft. in Vancouver or 1,150 sq. ft. in Fairbanks AK in terms of heating load.

Respondent C

Generally speaking more mass means more heat capacity. Not all houses are constructed equally or in the same geographic location and not everyone burns their heater the same. Also not all heaters are placed in a central location, so the buyer must be informed that the rating may be reduced based on location.  I always tell potential buyers that no matter what, "they will always have a zone of comfortable heat output" if the power goes out. 

 

Respondent D

To be on the safe side, it is a good idea to ask the home owner to have an energy audit done on their house.   These audits are not expensive and will show where the cold spots are in the house. On the blower test, the inspector can determine the square footage of air leaving the house through leaks and can show where the leaks are. This is money well spent and will have a lifetime of positive effects.

Respondent A: +Norbert Senf – Masonry Stove Builders, Shawville, Quebec

Respondent B: +Alex Chernov – Stovemaster, Caledon, Ontario

Respondent C: +Doug Hren – Masonry Heater Design House, Hickory Corners, Michigan

 

Respondent D: +Gary Hart – Aaron’s Ltd. Alternative Energy, High Ridge, Missouri

 

Maintaining Your Masonry Heater

By Marge Padgitt

Masonry heaters require regular maintenance in order to function properly, and the flue should be swept to avoid chimney fires. Maintenance includes sweeping of the chimney flue, brushing out the flue gas channels, inspection of the chimney and heater, and doing any repairs necessary. If the masonry heater is operated properly there should be little,if any creosote in the flue, and you should find only small amounts of soot. If there is any amount of creosote in the flue proper operation and burning procedures should be reviewed. One to two very hot fires should be burned each day, or once every 12 hours for most heaters. The fire should not be “damped down” to maintain a longer burning time as is the normal procedure with a wood stove. The maximum number of fires per day should be three. For chimneys with exterior exposure, the flue will be colder than an interior chimney and will accumulate more soot.

Cleaning the flue gas channels involves using a small poly brush and vacuum. Go to the small channel doors, open them and clean and vacuum each one to remove fly ash. The chimney interior and exterior needs to be inspected, and the heater itself should be inspected for any deterioration or loose firebrick in the firebox, any cracking in the exterior heater skin or finish work, and correct clearances to combustibles. Like any masonry structure, the masonry heater and chimney will need to be maintained and repaired as needed. Get a copy of the Homeowners Safety Manual and Burning Guide for Masonry Heaters for free at www.mha-net.org.

Be sure not to use a grate inside the firebox. Fires should be built right on the firebrick floor. The door should be closed during operation, and flammable liquids should not be used to start fires. Homeowners should not burn anything other than dry cord wood in the heater. Building a top-down burn fire will provide a clean burn start up with less CO and smoke. The top-down burn is the opposite of what you learned as a Scout. Place a couple of large logs on the bottom with airspace between them, then add smaller logs on top in the opposite direction, then kindling. Try Fatwood or dry pine as a fire-starter. The fire will burn down slowly, like a candle. This method warms the flue slowly, and causes draft to establish before the fire really gets going.

Your professional chimney sweep is best qualified to sweep and maintain a masonry heater, and can likely do any minor masonry repairs needed needed as well. Find a professional chimney sweep at the Midwest Chimney Safety Council Website at www.mcsc-net.org or at the Chimney Safety Institute of America site at www.csia.org.

For more information visit www.mha-net.org or call Executive Director Richard Smith at 530-883-0191.

Masonry Heater Association Encourages Preparedness with Wood-Burning Heating and Cooking Appliances

Masonry heater and bake oven with heated bench by Max Edelson of Firespeaking

Press Release

Masonry Heater Association Encourages Preparedness with Wood-Burning Heating and Cooking Appliances

November 14, 2012

The Masonry Heater Association of North America encourages homeowners to be prepared for any type of disaster with an alternative source of heating and cooking. The recent flooding and lack of electricity in the Northeast United States during cold temperatures is a reminder that everyone should be prepared to be self-sufficient in a disaster or power outage.  

Masonry heaters are site-built wood-burning appliances constructed with natural materials that radiantly heat a home with the renewable resource of wood. Masonry heaters are efficient and use relatively small amounts of wood to heat without the use of electricity, gas, fans, or ducts. These appliances heat the home through burning wood in a firebox, which connects to channels inside a large thermal mass. After the fire is out the heater gradually radiates heat to the living space for many hours without causing large temperature fluctuations or drafts. Many homeowners prefer masonry heaters rather than gas, electric, or wood-stove heating methods for regular use, not just during power outages.

Outdoor oven by Martin Pearson

Masonry heaters can be built with an oven, which can be used anytime, but is especially important during times of disaster when electricity or gas may not be available.  Stand-alone outdoor brick ovens are another option. These are site-built using a pre-cast oven kit or built with firebrick.

Masonry heaters and bake ovens are appliances that masons should get specialized training in before building. The Masonry Heater Association of North America trains heater masons and oven builders.

For more information or for a list of builders in the U.S. and Canada contact Richard Smith, Executive Director, at 520-883-0191, e-mail execdir@mha-net.org or visit www.mha-net.org. 

Your house might be making you sick

By Marge Padgitt

As people close up their homes for winter, sealing every open gap, and installing thermal windows and insulation, they may be doing more than making their home energy efficient. They might be doing things that can make their family ill.

Houses need at least six air exchanges per day, according to the Environmental Protection Agency. These air exchanges are necessary in order to move out tobacco smoke, Carbon Dioxide, Carbon Monoxide, Nitrogen Dioxide, Radon, and a host of other chemicals such as Formaldehyde that off-gas from furniture, carpet and woodwork. These air exchanges bring in fresh air for the occupants to breathe.

Exacerbating the problem are appliances that take air out of the house such as attic fans, range hoods, bathroom fans, clothes dryers, and central vacuums. If the house is tightly constructed replacement air needs to be introduced somehow.

Appliances such as furnaces, hot water heaters, fireplaces, and wood-burning stoves need air for combustion, and they take house air for this purpose. Open fireplaces are only -10 - +10% efficient, and use heated air from the home, causing the furnace to work harder. Even if an outside air source is supplied to a fireplace in an attempt to use less house air, this is often inadequate, and is not the best solution. Cold air dumped on a hot fire cools it down, causes it to burn inefficiently, and to produce more CO.

High-efficiency gas fireplace inserts are 75% + efficient and use no indoor air for combustion, and wood-burning fireplace inserts and freestanding stoves are 70%+ efficient and use much less air for combustion than traditional open fireplaces do. These are good choices whether a home has inadequate air for combustion or not. Other methods to improve fireplace efficiency include installation of glass doors, use of a grate heater, and improvement in design. A Rumford style fireplace is a better choice than a standard style fireplace because it uses less air and is more efficient. Efficient fireplaces or inserts use less wood than standard fireplaces to produce the same amount of heat, so an added benefit is lower energy cost.

Health effects associated with poor indoor air quality are unexplained flu-like symptoms, headaches, dizziness, fatigue, confusion, eye and nose irritation, and in more serious cases, inability to wake up, asthma, cancer, irreversible brain damage, or death.

Another problem that can occur in larger homes or homes that are tightly constructed is unbalanced house pressure. Symptoms of negative house pressure are moisture condensation on cold surfaces, smoking fireplaces or wood-burning stoves, difficulty lighting a fire in a fireplace, CO backup from gas and wood appliances, back-drafting of appliances (and CO), CO detector alarms frequently, and cold air infiltration through leaks. Children and pets may be more affected than adults. If a person feels ill when at home, but better when outside the home, this is an indication that something is wrong with the house.

A good solution is the PlusAire whole house ventilator, which mixes cool outside air with warm air before sending it on to the furnace and the rest of the house where it is used as combustion air and fresh air for the occupants to breathe. 

Strategies to improve air quality:

1. Install portable air cleaners
2. Maintain humidifiers and dehumidifiers and empty water trays
3. Replace air filters on schedule
4. Turn on whole house fans or bathroom and kitchen fans with doors or windows open occasionally in Spring and Summer (not during cold weather)
5. Install a heat recovery ventilator (HRV) to the furnace (assists the furnace only)
6. Install a whole-house ventilator such as Plus-Aire to bring in make-up air for appliances and fresh air to breathe
7. Install EPA Certified high-efficiency gas or wood-burning inserts in fireplaces
8. Be sure clothes dryers are properly vented outdoors and vents are cleaned twice per year
9. Use a vented gas space heater or stove rather than an un-vented gas appliance
10. Never use kerosene heaters inside the house
11. Have a trained licensed HVAC contractor clean and tune-up furnaces annually
12. Have a professional CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep inspect and clean furnace, fireplace, masonry heater, and wood stove flues annually
13. Have an energy specialist do a blower door test on the home, which will indicate leaking areas and negative pressure issues

Sources:

www.epa.gov

www.csia.org

www.ncsg.org

www.acca.org

www.plusairplus.com

www.wikipedia.com

www.chimkc.com

www.coheadquarters.com

Masonry Heater Workshop Oct. 26-31 or Oct 28-31, 2012

Masonry Heater Workshop Oct. 26-31 or Oct 28-31, 2012

  

Masonry Heaters are clean-burning heating appliances that use the renewable resource of wood for fuel. They are site built, with a core that is hand-built or pre-cast.  Masonry heaters use no electricity, gas, fans, or duct work, and work by storing heat in a thermal mass, then emitting radiant heat to the living space. Find out why Masonry Heaters are the best heating option today! Masons, skilled homeowners, and contractors interested in learning new skills will want to attend this intensive training session. 

  

The Heater Mason Development Program(HMED) has proven to be an excellent tool to learn more about masonry heaters. The curriculum is designed as an introductory course for masons or homeowners who want to know more about the heating appliance. This course may be used as a "professional credential" good towards the Certified Heater Mason program.

  

The workshop is being held October 26 - 31, 2012 near Sullivan Missouri, near St. Louis. Workshop participants will learn how masonry heaters work, and participate in the the basics of heater building,  hands-on heater core building, and hands-on oven core installation. A heated bench and wood-burning cook stove are also part of the program. This workshop is an approved HMED program for those wishing to become Certified Heater Masons.

  

The class schedule is as follows:

October 26-27: Intensive classroom training with HMED approved credit towards Certification (Certified Heater Mason). Heater builders who wish to be Certified Heater Masons can apply credits for this course. Other builders are encouraged to attend in order to learn the basics of Masonry Heaters which is extremely important! 

October 28-29: Hands-on workshop- build a contra-flow masonry heater with bake oven and heated bench.

October 30 -31: Hands-on workshop bonus- Build a wood-fired cook-stove!
.

Those wishing to stay longer to assist with the exterior finishing work are welcome.

  

The project instructors are Jerry Frisch, owner of Lopez Quarries in Everett, Washington, Gary Hart, owner of Aaron's Ltd. Alternative Energy in High Ridge, Missouri, and Gene Padgitt, Vice President of HearthMasters, Inc. in Kansas City, Missouri. All three are Certified Heater Masons. Jerry Frisch is a master heater builder.

  

Cost for the four-day HMED workshop is $795 for MHA Members and $900 for non-members, plus bonus two-day cook stove workshop.  ALL 6 days!

Or 

$400 for non-HMED participants: attend any four days from Oct 28 - 31!

  

CEU's have been approved for CSIA and NFI. 

Visit www.mha-net.org or call Richard Smith, Executive Director, at   520-883-0191 for more information or to register for the workshops. Get your motel reservations in now! E-mail mha.association@yahoo.com